YOU HAVE TO BE ON TIME FOR THE PARTY

The amuse-bouches are neatly arranged on their trays, tightly packed together. But with so many guests at the GaultMillau Garden Party at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, it’s a bit of an elbow-grab to get to these little delicacies, prepared by four members of the Grandes Tables de Suisse: Patrick Mahler (Focus, Park Hotel Vitznau), Pascal Steffen (Roots, Basel), Tobias Funke (Fernsicht, Heiden) and Romain Dercile (Fleur de Sel, Cossonay). These Michelin-starred chefs did not rest on their laurels: in the end, 2400 amuse-bouches were offered to the guests. A Titan’s task, devoured in the blink of an eye. Too bad for those who arrived late, even by a few minutes. Patrick Mahler, for example, kept filling his tartlets with duck foie gras and topping them with a little beef tartare, with the help of Raul Garcia, his talented sous-chef, always at his side.

REQUEST SENT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT

“Our president Guy Ravet sent me an e-mail in the middle of the night. We were in the process of finalizing the organization of an event, so I was able to reply immediately”, explains the chef. His colleague Pascal Steffen also made a point of joining in the festivities. The 17-point Basel chef personally enjoys attending events of this kind. But today, he wanted a change, to see what it’s like on the other side of the mirror. “We have to accept this kind of proposal from time to time, as it allows us to make a name for ourselves. Besides, this garden party is, for us, like an alumni reunion.”

THE NEW KID ON THE BLOCK

Romain Dercile, also a 17-point chef, is usually to be found in the kitchens of La Fleur de Sel restaurant in Cossonay. But today, he was also in Bad Ragaz, preparing a cauliflower and black garlic tartlet. “I was pretty serene, even though it’s my first time here”. Tobias Funke didn’t look nervous either. This jack-of-all-trades knows how to manage stress. “It’s a bit hectic at the beginning, but then we can enjoy the event”.

A DYNAMIC PRESIDENT

If the Grandes Tables de Suisse field such a strong team at the Garden Party, it’s thanks to the efforts of their president, Guy Ravet, who has brought a breath of fresh air and, above all, new blood to the association. “The Grandes Tables were a bit old-fashioned. I wanted to bring in a new generation. Pascal Steffen and Tobias Funke were the first to be convinced. Their decision was a great help to me, as many other chefs followed suit. Today, it’s once again highly regarded to be part of the Grandes Tables”. But how did the President choose the chefs for the Garden Party? “Quite a few members were interested. The quickest to respond were selected. Having said that, I do try to ensure a certain balance, for example with the presence of French-speaking and German-speaking people”.

ALL GONE IN NO TIME

So, how would you sum up the Grandes Tables’ presence at the Garden Party? I’m very satisfied,” says Guy Ravet. And it seems that the guests were equally satisfied. The four chefs saw their preparations disappear in no time. “Fortunately, I had brought more ingredients than were officially required. My team was able to offer more tarts than expected”, smiles Patrick Mahler. But even with these extras, the amuse-bouches didn’t last long.

GOOD MOOD IN THE GARDEN

The annual general meeting of the Grandes Tables de Suisse chefs’ association gave chefs from all over Switzerland the opportunity to spend the afternoon in the garden of the Grand Hôtel du Lac in Vevey, the new workplace of their president, Guy Ravet. Guy Ravet has restored the association’s lustre thanks to his great personal commitment: “A lot has changed with us, and it’s a pleasure to be part of it”, said the star chef.

THE NEW 2023 MEMBERS

Large photo above: Mattias Roock (Castello del Sole, Ascona), Federico Paladino (Osteria Enoteca Cuntitt, Castel San Pietro), Samuel Carugati (Krone, St. Moritz), Lukas Klaus (Krone, St. Moritz). Moritz), Lukas Kiener (Zur Gedult, Burgdorf), Mohamed Azeroual (La Cène, Fribourg), Richard Stöckli (Alpenblick, Wilderswil), Clément Bourgeois (Le Soleil de Châtillon, Châtillon), Nicolas Darnauguilhem (La Pinte des Mossettes, Cerniat), Grégory Wyss (Gerber Wyss Restaurant, Yverdon-les-Bains), Mike Wehrle (Bürgenstock Resort, Obbürgen), Mauro Capelli (Restaurant du Théàtre, Monthey) and GTS President Guy Ravet, from left to right.

DIVERSITY AND COMMITMENT

One of the few items on the agenda was, of course, the admission of new members – eleven new members in 2023, six having left the Grandes Tables through resignation or retirement. Among the new members was Bürgenstock’s head chef, Mike Wehrle, responsible for four GaultMillau restaurants in the resort overlooking Lake Lucerne. “I love the diversity and commitment of Grandes Tables,” explains the executive chef to justify his membership.

CHEFS WITH POTENTIAL

While many young chefs from all parts of the country have joined the Grandes Tables over the past two years, growth is no longer central for Guy Ravet: “If five or six good colleagues join the Grandes Tables every year, that makes me happy. I’m looking for cooks who may have 15 or 16 points, but who have the potential to have 17 or 18,” says the chef at the helm of the two restaurants at the Grand Hôtel du Lac in Vevey.

THE DISH OF THE DAY

For the recreational part of this annual meeting, Guy Ravet and General Secretary Kurt Eicher drew inspiration from the GaultMillau Garden Party. People enjoy it more than a formal gala evening,” explains Ravet. Eminent chefs from the French-speaking part of Switzerland will be present at the various cooking stations: Stéphane Décotterd, for example, will be serving translucent Arctic char with a subtle woody sauce and candied potato. Marie Robert proposes a magnificent ravioli with mussels and asparagus. But THE dish of the day is to be found at station number two, at Franck Giovannini’s: slow-cooked langoustine in herb sauce, accompanied by langoustine flan and zucchini flowers. A feast for the eyes and the taste buds.